Friday, October 30, 2009

Beaufort, NC

Hi y'all

Gotta love the drawl.....We arrived in Beafort, NC yesterday, late afternoon.  We are staying at the docks which are right "downtown"; town being appx 6 blocks by 6 blocks.  But everything we need is here.  We plan on being here through Saturday and then we are going to do an off-shore jump to the Cape Fear area.  This is a 70 mile shot so we won't be able to complete the trip in daylight.  So, we are still planning the time to leave for a daylight arrival and a flooding tide at the Masonboro Inlet.  Right now, the weather window looks good for Sunday.  

Today is going to be a day of cleaning both the boat and the crew.  When we get a chance to explore the town we will let you know how we make out.  All for now.........   The D + T Express

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Beaufort, NC Here we come

Hey !

Well we have been traveling down the ICW since Sunday.  We have had quite the adventure. 

On Monday we motored down from Coinjock to the Albemarle Sound, which we were able to sail across.  What a NASTY body of water.  The winds were howling and we had square shaped,  steep waves rolling the boat from side to side; all while it was raining.  We arrived at the Alligator River and anchored behind an island near the mouth.  There wasn't another boat to be seen.....we soon learned why.....the current swirled around the island causing waves to roll through the anchorage !  The boat rolled as if  we were still in the Albemarle Sound.  That night a thunder storm hit with high winds (30+ MPH) and again driving rains.  We got little or no sleep.  The spirts of the Albermarle just wouldn't give up.  Trudie has repeatedly said that the Albermarle is the worst place she has ever sailed and has vowed NEVER to return.  (I second her opinion !)  We have sailed in some pretty snotty weather, and "tuff"conditions, but the Albermarle wins. Not dangerous, just plain rotten......enough said.

We had a great anchorage last night and slept 10 straigh hours to make up for the previous night's loss of sleep.  The last two days it has been  mostly hours of motoring down channels and canals, many of which are man-made "ditches" carved through the wetlands of North Carolina.  Yesterday we motored down the Pungo Canal for 22 miles....it is about 200 feet wide, and straight as an arrow.  There is a bridge toward the end of the canal that you can see literally 10 miles up the canal because the terrain is dead flat and the canal so straight.  The canals are lined with trees all of which look the same so there is no way to tell how far you have traveled down the canal (without use of electronics).   The scenery is all identical.   Every five miles there is a Mile Marker so you have a clue where you are.

Tonight we are anchored in a little creek off the Neuse River.  We are in a completely unspoiled wetland, tucked behind an island for wind protection.  There is absolutely NOTHING here.   I don't think there is any civilization for 5 miles around.  We are the only boat and the tranquility is awesome, broken only by the pelicans fishing for dinner.  A perfect ending to the day.  

In closing, the following is a picture of Persephone taken at dawn  by friends on "Luff Affair".  It really was that pretty !  Thanks Don + Mary for a great shot !



 

Where in the World is Persephone ??

Hi All......

Several of our friends and followers have asked: "where in the world is Persephone"?  We use the Blog as a secondary way of posting our position.  Often times we have no cell service especially when we traverse rural areas (read: swamps of North Carolina) or are sailing off shore.  This morning we have very limited cell service, so I am hoping to be able to post this Blog.

The principal way to follow Persephone is through an amateur radio site which we are able to connect to nearly always from the boat.  We regularly check in and post our postion daily and often several times a day when underway.  We do this so that others will know our exact location in case of a problem and so the you can track our progress in nearly real time.  It's real easy......go to http://www.shiptrak.org/  (note there is no "c" in trak)  In the upper left type in my call letters which are N1ELQ.  This will bring up a world map and we will be plotted on it.  There is a log function at the bottom of the page to see our previous positions.

Hope this helps answer the question of "where in the world is Persephone"?  Hope to be in Beaufort, NC by the end of the week.

The D + T Express  ........

Saturday, October 24, 2009

BYE TO THE BAY....

We have been on the move all week, heading south down the Bay.  The creeks and coves we anchored in for the night have become a blur; each one as pretty, secluded and tranquil as the next.  On Thursday, we left the Bay and entered Hampton Roads, VA which is the home of the US Navy.  Every type of craft the Navy has, whether it floats or flies,  is stationed here.  Security is very tight with  boats and aircraft regularly patroling the sky and water.  We cruised by the "Long Grey Line" of moored battleships, aircraft carriers and assault ships:



The might of the US Navy displayed here is awsome !!

We proceeded down the river which separates Norfolk from Porstsmith VA.  This is a water transport system which includes military craft, husge tugs + barges, commercial ships, full size cruise ships and of course small boats (read: Persephone) all mixed together.  We navigated and weaved our way safely through and are anchored at Mile Marker 0 of the Intercoastal Waterway.  As we mentioned before this is series of rivers, canals, and bays linked together so that boats large and small can travel south without going into the ocean.  The ICW is marked in miles from Mile 0 (where we are anchored) to Mile 1095 at Key Biscayne, FLA.  Guess we have a LONG way to go !!

We plan on starting down the ICW tomorrow morning going to Mile 50 at Coinjock, North Carolina.  We will stay there for a day at a marina to do maintainance, laundry etc.  We haven't been to a marina since we left Annapolis; so a pit stop is well deserved.  We wanted to go through the Great Dismal Swamp (sounds great doesn't it !!) but we can't due to depth.  Most of our friends are going this way, but the "Swamp" is only 6' deep, and we need 6.5 to float. 

We are really enjoying our stay at Portsmouth/Norfolk.  The weather is warm, and people even warmer.  This is the view from Persephone in the evening......  Enjoy !









Sunday, October 18, 2009

SOGGY !!!

Rain, rain go away.....this chilren's nursery rhyme has become the mantra on Persephone !  We left Annapolis on Thursday which was a blustery, driving rain kind of day.  You can tell the type of day it was when the marine radio was dead quite and there was not another pleasure boat to be seen.  But, yes THE CREW was out in the elements:




My favorite part was the sleet pellets bounching off our foul weather gear !!  NOT what we saw in all the sailing magazines
touting the cruising lifestyle...beaches, bars, bikinis...???



We arrived at dark (again...that is all we have been doing since arriving in the Bay) in Solomons Island.  Solomons is a town built around boating.  It has been raining and blowing since we arrived.  Our plan was just to stop over one night and continue down the Bay.  However, weather conditions have been awful:  highs in the fortys, blowing like heck (we are under a gale warning again today for 40 knt winds (48 mph)) and constant hard rain.  We have made the best of it by catching up on our provisioning, including several trips to CVS.  In order to leave the boat, we have to get in full foul weather gear as pictured above, bail out the dinghy, motor to town and then walk to the stores, wrap all in plastic and return to the boat all while it is driving rain.  We are not complaining, but this life style is so different from when we were "dirt-dwellers".     In Connecticut, it would be strange to see people walking around a store in full rain gear, but here all the cruisers are dressed the same and no one bats an eye. 

We have been very fortunate to meet up with a cruising couple, Jane and Peter on "Kinvara".  We met them in Annapolis and  hooked up with them in the Solomons.  Jane invited us for dinner on Thursday nite, but we had to take a "rain check" (literally) because we were half-drowned by the time we got the anchor down.  On Friday nite, Jane prepared chicken parm on Kinvara.....it was a hot, delicious feast on a cold wet night.  The dinghy ride back to Persephone in soaked  foulies was a special treat !!  (Our rain gear has become saturated due to constant use)  Peter and I walked to the West Marine Store yesterday, and Trudie hung with Jane while doing laundry.  Hanging with another couple has been  the antidote to cabin fever. 

Last nite, Trudie roasted a chicken on P-Girl, with all the trimmings including fresh, homemade cranberry sauce.  I was forced to listen to the Yankees while Trudie cheered or booed at each play !!! The game was tied and still going after midnite !!  Ultimately, the Yanks won and all was in order aboard. 

We hope to be under way tomorrow (Monday) morning heading south for the Reedville, VA area.  Yes, you read right... VIRGINIA !!!  Reedville is appx 50 miles south of where we are.  We will keep you updated on the ham radio tracking site. 

Hoping for a break in the weather.......we NEED to dry out......  THE CREW

 

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Annapolis

Hi all...........

Yes, we are still in Annapolis.  We arrived last Thursday, and haven't stopped since.  Thursday was a "clean up everything" day.....us, laundry, and the boat.  After not being at a marina for a couple of weeks, laundry had piled up, and the boat and us needed good baths.

Ian,   Mike and Trudie's friend Cynthia arrived on Friday to kick off the weekend.  We took a water taxi to downtown Annapolis and partied hardy !!  On Saturday, we were off to the the boatshow.  We spent the whole day wandering around drooling over goodies we just had to have, but could not afford on our "new" budget.  Sunday was a hang out day to recoop from Friday and Saturday.  Mike and I installed a new heater just in time.  By Sunday night,  the temps dropped and we were happy to have it.  (Our old heater was 10 years old and the cost of maintainance and lack of available parts made the decision easy....but not easy on the cruising budget !!)  First thing Monday morning we left the marina and picked up a mooring in Back Creek which is just southeast of Annapolis.  It was good to get off the dock and feel the boat moving with wind and wave. 

While we were here, we took advantage of North Sails which made the entire inventory of sails for Persephone.  Last week I noticed a small chafe spot on our headsail and wanted to get it repaired before any further damage was done.  So, we took the sail down and brought it to the sail maker.  Appears that the repairs are minor and we will have the sail back tomorrow AM.  With that, we are anxious to get back "on the road south".

Tonight we will start plotting our next stop.  Probably Solomon's Island which is about 40 miles down the Bay.  After that, we would like to get into Virginia by the end of the week and begin the trek down the "ditch"....the Intercoastal Waterway.  (The ICW is an inter-connected series of rivers, canals, bays and sounds which starts in Norfolk, VA and goes all the way to Florida.  This eliminates the need to sail "off shore", but it is mostly mortoring in pretty shallow waters.  We already know we will not be able to use the Ditch in South Carolina and Georgia because of our draft; so we have to go outside.

Decisions, decisions.....we will keep you posted on our progress.  As for now, we have another day in the Annapolis area and plan of leaving Thursday (provided the sail is ready)   Did I hear someone say something about another Painkiller ?? 

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

On the Run !!

We have been on the move since our last posting.  We left the Wye River yesterday and headed up to an area called Kent Narrows.  This is a narrow area of land with a drawbridge that would cut off about 10 miles of sailing as we head for the Annapolis area IF we can get through....the charted depth is 3 feet at low tide.  (We need 6 1/2 feet to float)  But, what about high tide...can we squeek throught ??

We arrived at the narrows around 2 PM and anchored next to Hog Island.  We had lunch and discussed the situation.  The tide table said the there was only a 2 foot difference between high and low tides....BUT, we have a full moon which causes the highest tides of the month.  Hmmmmm...we got in the dinghy with the hand held depth sounder (Trudie gave me for Xmas) and took soundings (depth readings) of the entire channel.  Yep...we can JUST make it exactly at high tide. 

We rushed back to the boat, and prepared to "do the Narrows".  Up came the anchor....the boat drifted back as I was fiddling around.  I got back to the wheel turned toward the channel about 200 yards away...suddenly the boat stopped moving....the depth sounder read 6.2 feet.  Remember earlier I mentioned we need 6.5 feet?   Yep, we were aground !!  A shot of reverse backed us out of the mud...but which way to go to deeper water ??  We both looked at the paper charts and the electronic chart-plotter.  We made a decision, hit the gas and literally plowed through the mud to the channel.  As the bottom is a gooey mud, no damage was done.

We arrived at the bridge 3 minutes after the scheduled opening but the bridge tender said he wasn't a stickler for the rules and opened the bridge stopping 5 pm traffic on a busy route to let us pass.  Down the narrow channel we went as slow as we could go....4 eyes glued to the depth sounder..... 8',,,,7.9.....7.8....it held there.....15" below the keel.  We held our breath and  breathed a HUGE sigh of relief as we successfully navigated Kent Narrows.  We headed up the Chester River to a secluded anchorage for the night.  The sun was setting on the west as we arrived and the nearly full moon was rising in the east.  A beauthiful ending to the day.  We toasted our adventure with coldies and fell asleep early.

When we got up this morning the weather forecast had changed.  They were (are) calling for heavy winds, and possibly a gale warning.  This was no big deal on Long Isand Sound,  we just tied up in our marina.  But, here we had to check out the charts for a hole to go and hide.  Trudie suggested the anchorage and I agreed.  We ran across the bay to the Magothy River (Thought  people here had a lisp talking about the "Magassey"  until I checked the spelling)   We found a nearly land locked hole to anchor for tonite and tomorrow and let the weather blow through.   The hole we are in is awesome.....we are in front of a HUGE horse farm with a georgian style mansion.  Not a bad place to ride out the weather.

Trudie is in the galley making up dinner and I am off to the shower.....

Running and hiding from the winds.....hunkered down and keeping our heads low....   The Crew

Sunday, October 4, 2009

HI from the Wye

We are still at Quarter Cove on the Wye River...a truly beauthiful spot.  (38 52.7 N  076 09.3 W)  In my last Blog I meantioned that there was only one other boat in this cove and that was tied to a dock in front of a home.  Well the owners came by yesterday, we complimented each other on our good taste in boats (the boats are identical) and they  invited us to their home this evening for dinner.  In addition, they suggested we use their dock to take on water in their absence.  We took them up on their offer and filled our water tanks to the brim.  Again, people on the Bay are just terrific!

Speaking of the Bay, last week we motorsailed  from the Bohemia River to the Rhode River as we previously mentioned.  There was little or no wind and the course was clearly marked by buoys every mile.  Trudie was on the helm and navigating down the river; I was getting antsy looking for something to do.  I remembered that the hour meter on the engine had stopped working so I decided to diagnose the problem.  Out came the test meter and I started fiddling around.  I touched a wire to the hour meter...SPARKS !!!!  AND THE ENGINE IMMEDIATELY WENT DEAD !!!  WHAT THE #@%& !!!!  The entire engine/starter circuit stopped working....and the engine could not be restarted.  In fact, when the key was turned, nothing...absolutely NOTHING happened.  We were right in the middle of a main shipping channel leading to Baltimore, with HUGE ships transiting the Bay.  There was little or no wind, but we had our mainsail up which allowed Trudie to sail to the edge of the channel.  This took approximately 20 minutes to go a couple of hundred yards to clear the channel.  We made it without any ships passing by and were able to safely anchor just outside of the channel so I could begin diagnosing the problem.  Trudie was great, assisting where she could, but most of all keeping me calm.  (Later, she admitted that she was not looking forward to call for a tow or worse, spending the nights anchored next to a major shipping channel.)   An hour and a half later the enging roared back to life and we were on our way.  I found a circuit breaker hidden away mounted on the back of the engine in a very inaccessable spot.

What I (note: "I" not "WE")  did wrong:  working on major systems while under way is a low percent move.  WE have agreed that I won't do that again.  We agreed that I am limited to cleaning and polishing and keeping my hands off all major systems.

What I did right:  1)  We had the mainsail up even though the wind was very light.  This permitted us to sail out of trouble; although it took at while.  2)  I had ordered a complete engine manual, together with a parts diagram just before leaving.  Being able to use the wiring diagram contained in the manual  to trace the problem saved the day. 

We averted our first real emergency by keeping our heads, and working through the problem.  It was a true team effort. 

Next Blog:  Last nite's CRAB ADVENTURE....or the crew goes down Tobacco Road......  See ya......

Friday, October 2, 2009

Got Crabs ??

Hi y'all,    (speaking "southern")

We have just completed our first full week on "THE BAY".  I can sum up the Chessy in just two words: Crab Crazy !!  Crabbing, eating crabs, crab cakes, crab balls, crab dip, crab clothing,  crab decor, crab resaurants and,  yes,  crab potato chips.  You go into a restaurant and well dressed ladies (including the blue hairs) are beating on crabs with hammers supplied at the table.  Maybe I'm  a bit jealous as I don't have a clue how to eat one of the little critters.  Trudie's friend Cynthia is visiting next week and has promised to teach us how to do crab.  Looks like fun.....  Will let you know.

We didn't leave the Rhode River (appx 10m south of Annapolis)  until Wednesday due to weather.  The reports called for winds higher than we enjoy, so we stayed put.  We had a great sail across the Bay to St. Michael's;  an upscale little town on the Eastern Bay.   We needed to get to a town to do food shopping and take on water.  We had not planned on being in the Rhode River as long as we were, so we were running a bit short on supplies.  We enjoyed our time at St. Mike's, ate crab each meal we had ashore, and met several cruising couples.  People on the Bay could not be more polite or accomodating.

We left St. Mikes around noon as the weather reports called for a stiff breeze this afternoon, tonite and tomorrow.  The anchorage at St. Mike's is exposed and can be pretty "rolly" in a blow.  So, we hauled anchor and sailed across to Wye River (pronounced "why")  The Why is similar to the Connecticut River with rolling hills, horse farms and estates.  We went pretty far up the river, pulled off into Quarter Cove and tucked ourselves close to shore behind a stand of trees....let it blow!! 

Its very neat sailing into areas we have only read about in guide books or recommended by fellow cruising sailors.  (The Wye was recommended by Bob and Phylis on Commotion...a Sabre 42.5....the big sister to Persephone.)   We are the only boat here, save a boat  (identical to Persephone) dock in front of a home across the cove.  Great calm spot to spend the night.  Trudie is in the galley making up a batch of homemade beef stew.  It's coming up on 5pm...you all know what that means....    Still have to tell you about my first mishap coming down the Bay last week.  Will save that for tomorrow's Blog.  Gotta drag Trudie out of the galley.  See ya.