d' Plane, d' Plane.....

After several small (and annoying) boat projects at St. Marin, the 'Persephoneies" were hanging out at Barnacles;  the local cruisers bar for happy hour.  Our friends, Bob and Debbie (S/V "Chimayo") suggested, "tomorrow afternoon, let's go to the Sunset Beach Bar at the end of the airport !"  Now, Bob and Debbie are both retired air traffic controllers so I figure that they are just missing being near airports....   "Why do we need to go there....we can drink pretty cheaply right here..." I questioned.  (Presidente Beer were only $1.
25)   "No, we HAVE to go and watch the planes land and take off !!"   Ok, I relented.....thinking they were both jonesing for an airport fix and we would be the enablers.   

The next afternoon, off we went to the Sunset Bar....little did we know that the bar was nearly ON the runway !!

The beach is right at the end of the runway...The planes are literally landing 50 yards away.  The bar has a chalkboard posting the schedule of the landings and takeoffs.  In the late afternoon, the jumbo jets start arriving from Europe.  I it amazing watching these monsters landing only yards away !  Then,  there are the takeoffs....!   The planes sit at the end of the runway reving up their engines.  The jet blast is so strong that traffic stops (see car above) and people on the beach run up and hang on to the fence so they don't get blown into the water....REALLY!  It's NUTS !!  The yellow umbrella in the photo above is about to go airborne into the water....

This is the jet blast......

You can see the blowing sand, and the people hanging onto the fence getting sandblasted as the planes spool up their engines.  In fact, I think some of the pilots put on a show by increasing and decreasing the RPMs several times before takeoff just to please the crowd.

The bar had speakers strategically spaced tuned to the tower frequency so that we could hear the air traffic controllers....Bob and Debbie were in their glory !   We had a great afternoon; and I actually thought about    hanging on the fence during a takeoff of a jumbo jet...but, nawh...didn't want to get sand in my beer !!

Brings a whole new meaning to the term True Grit !  

The Persephoneies

Persephone versus the Volcano....

A week ago, at sunrise, 'Persephone' and 'Sailacious' motored out of  Les Saintes and traveled the 55 miles to the volcanic island of Montserrat.  During the past decade, Montserrat's volcano has had three major eruptions with several lesser "events"; the last one being in 2008.    The most major of the eruptions left the capital city of Plymouth covered in a couple of feet (yes, FEET) of ash.  The city had to be abandoned, and two thirds of the population left Montserrat. The entire south side of island is still an "Exclusionary Zone" where travel is prohibited.

Montserrat's Volcano

In addition to the feet of ash covering Plymouth, the lava flow surrounded the city.  The lava flow is still clearly seen as you approach from seaward....

'Persephone' and 'Sailacious' sailed into Montserrat's remaining harbor; which is tiny, and very commercial.  The harbor is just a small "cut out" behind a small mountain.  The local fishing fleet (small open boats) were moored throughout the harbor further decreasing the room. As a result, the remaining portion of the anchorage is exposed to the swells of the Caribbean Sea.  A north swell was running into the harbor, and the boats were rising and falling five feet, making it very uncomfortable.  But, we were there, wanted to tour the volcano, and made the decision to stay.

Janice and Steve ('Sailacious') picked us up in their dinghy for the short trip ashore.   We were greeted by a customs official who announced that we were anchored in channel and had to move the boats.  We tried to explain that the anchors were in the channel, but the boats themselves were well outside according to our GPS.   He again demanded we move...but where ?  He "suggested" that move further outside of the anchorage into still deeper water.  We were already anchored in water 36 feet deep...much deeper would become "questionable" in the swells.  Smiling, (smurking ?)  the official said we should clear customs first (ie. pay the fees and get our money) and then move the boats.  We all looked at each other, exchanged glances and headed for the dinghy.  We all agreed that the place just "didn't have a good feel".  An unattractive harbor, unprotected from the swells, very deep, crowded with fishing boats and an unfriendly official added up to one conclusion....GET OUT.   So, we hauled anchor (it was 3pm) and moved the boats....out of the country !!  We set a course for Nevis,  35 miles away.  In the end, the volcano won and chased  'Persephone' from it's island.  As we left, Jimmy Buffett was on the stereo singing..."where do you go when the volcano blows"?  Anywhere but Montserrat !!

THE CREW  



  

St Marin

Good morning from St. Martin!! Persephone has been here at anchor for the past couple of days. As typical in the French islands, (Persephone is anchored on the French side of the island, where there are no fees) there is no wifi internet service in the anchorage. We are relegated to using hotspots at bars to download email. Bars aren't very conducive to writing coherent blogs !

Persephone will be at here for another day or two, awaiting a weather window to move west to the BVIs (British Virgin Islands) and then onto St. John, USVI for the holidays. This is nearly a one hundred mile jump which requires a departure in the wee hours of the morning (3 am) so that our arrival is during daylight hours. So, optimum weather conditions are a must.

St. Martin has been terrific for shopping....something the southern Caribbean is lacking. The budget was wounded at the Mega Ace hardware store (more XMAS lites, 18v battery for the drill, Tupperware etc); Budget Marine (new gas grill, spare filters and assorted pieces and parts)and the Grand Marche...a super-super market to restock the panty before heading to the expensive VIs.

Will keep you all updated and post pictures when we have internet...

RAIN Continues.....

Does anyone remember the movie "Caddy Shack" ?  Specifically, the scene where the Bishop is playing the best round of golf of his life, and won't quit due to the rain.  All I can think of is Bill Murray's comment "when is the hard stuff gonna start falling"?All the while it is pouring a monsoon with driving winds....   That scene could have been reshot in the northern Caribbean over the last two+ weeks....

This is the approach to Les Saintes (an island group just south of Guadeloupe....(The color has not been altered or 'photoshopped'.....

Isle des Saintes, Guadeloupe

   The Saintes are a rural-resort area for the French; both from the islands, and Europe.  It reminds me of the main street on Block Island, with "cute" (read: expensive) shops, restaurants,  great ice cream and the world's best patisseries for baguettes and of course pan au chocolat...my mouth is watering as I am typing this.

After spending the day at Les Saintes, we were treated to a wonderful sunset...

The sailors' adage held true for the next day's passage to Montserrat....Persephone left the Saintes before dawn and was treated to a beautiful sunrise at sea with no rain, but unfortunately, there was no wind either. So, it was a 10 hour motor....yuck ! 

Stay tuned for the next posting...."Persephone versus the Volcano" !!

PS... caught a NICE tuna between Les Saintes and Montserrat....10+ pounds...enough for 4 meals.  Gotta save money anyway I can until my Social Security starts in 29 days !!

Membership in the Country Club continues....

Persephone continues to change countries as fast as a sailor changes brands of rum....

We are now in day 15 (yes, FIFTEEN !!) of rain with NO wind. No, Mike, you were not the Jonah bringing us this lousy weather.... the rain has continued for nearly a week since you left the Caribbean. Even the locals are shaking their heads; muttering something about climate change...this is supposed to be "d' dry season, ya know, Mon".

Yesterday, we were sailed (actually we motored as there was zero wind most of the day) into "Dismal Dominica"...just in time for the rain to begin in earnest. It continued to rain all night and sporadically throughout today. The boat is wet, dinghy rides are wet, our foul weather gear is wet, the groceries and beer are wet ! The only things we have managed to keep dry are our passports and boat documents. No one we talk to has ever seen this type of weather in December.... !!

The highlight of our day was finding a brand new IGA food store in Dominica; only a 5 minute walk from customs. We restocked up on basics, and Carib beer. (Cruisers FYI: Carib was $61 EC per case plus VAT..so it is the same price as Grenada).

We left Dominica this morning (in showers) and motored to Iles des Saintes, Guadeloupe. We again cleared in and out of customs, grabbed a couple of baguettes, and had a sorbet in the village....this place is SO French. We plan on leaving first thing in the morning for Pigeon Island, Guadeloupe for another 'one nite stand'; before pushing on to Montserrat.

I don't tan very well, but I have lost what I had. I look like I own a submarine instead of a sailboat ! This is getting reminiscent of New England; without the cold.

Doing the wind dance in "paradise"... !!!

THE CREW

The "Country" Club...

Persephone has joined the 'Country' Club...a different day, a different country ! A couple of days ago we were in St. Lucia, and then moved north to St. Anne, Martinique. Today, we sailed from St. Anne's to St. Pierre, Martinique; about 35+ miles. (Doesn't sound like much, but remember, Persephone averages only 6 miles an hour !!) We will spend the night here, and then leave at first light for Portsmouth, Dominica (50+ miles north). Again, our plan is to spend the night in Dominica, and again jump north to Guadeloupe; followed by Montserrat the next day. (Persephone has not been to Montserrat...looking forward to hanging out with an active volcano.) The rain continues (now a solid two weeks of rain !!) but the winds have been moderate, and favorable; so we want to take advantage and get as far north as quickly as possible with the favorable conditions...despite the rain. (We are absolutely soggy !!) Will update you all when we get an internet connection !

THE CREW