In Search of Columbus.....

When we set sail from Connecticut five months ago, our plan was to re assess our journey as spring approaches. When we left, we said goodbye to friends and colleges saying "see you in the spring". Well spring is just around the corner; so what do we do ??

We discussed "Chicken Harbor" in our previous postings as the turn-around point for snow birds. This is the southern most harbor of the snow bird migration where decisions must be made. Do we start heading north back to the states as most cruisers do (and return to work) or do we take the "thorny path" south into the Caribbean ?? One thing is for certain, we can't stay in the Bahamas due to the threat of hurricanes.

We have been anchored in George Town, (in the southern part of the Exuma chain of the Bahamas) for the past five weeks. We have carefully weighed all of the options...the pros and the cons. We have reviewed the charts of the route south and the multiple cautions and warnings contained therein. The very opening sentences in the "Cruising Guide to the Southern Bahamas" warn: "Only the hardiest of cruisers head south of George Town, Exuma, for the Southern Bahamas, Turks and Caicos and the Carib. Many of the Southern Islands lie well off the beaten path and are rarely visited by yachts. Some of these areas are extremely isolated (with few all weather anchorages) and if you get weathered in you may find yourself the only boat in the anchorage for days, and sometimes weeks at a time. The cruiser in these waters definitely needs to be as self-sufficient as possible"....

Well, the decision has been made. Persephone is heading south to the Caribbean. She will not be returning to the US this spring; the date for a return has been postponed indefinitely. Instead, Persephone will be following in the wake of a man we call Christopher Columbus (more on that later).

Juan Rodriguez Bermejo de Triana, the lookout aboard the "Pinta", sailing in the waters just south and east of George Town, saw something that would change the world forever. At 0200 (2 am) on the morning of October 12, 1492, Triana shouted that he sighted the moon's reflection on land. This land was one of the islands located in the Southern Bahamas. For centuries a debate has raged as to which island was discovered on the fateful night. Historians have whittled the list down to a handful of islands of where Columbus first landed known as the "Columbus Controversy". Well, Persephone is going to sail in Columbus' wake, to the islands claiming to the be the first island discovered in the new world. By visiting these islands, discovering our own "new worlds", hopefully Persephone will be able to conclusively determine which island was first discovered and end the "Columbus Controversy" forever.....

THE CREW

After the Hunt !!

Dinner !!!!!

Update.......

Good Morning all..

After over three weeks of being anchored in one spot, we were forced to move on Thursday due to the weather forecast. The same storm that dumped snow across Texas, Louisiana, and Florida trailed an intense cold front into the Bahamas. Our "weather guru" stated that the track of the low was very unusual, and he had not seen a low track so far south in the past decade. So, THE CREW really paid attention to the predicted gale force winds and squalls packing 50 + knot gusts (think about driving your car at 60 miles per hour and sticking your head out of the window that's what a 501knt squall feels like !! ) So, we did the prudent thing and moved Persephone across the harbor to Crab Cay. The charts show that the natural harbor at Crab Cay has depths of only 3 feet (we need 6 ½ to float) BUT, a marina had been started on Crab but never completed..what they did accomplish, however, was to dredge the cove down to depths of 9-16 feet !! This change is not shown on the charts. This is not a picturesque spot do to the abandon construction site for the marina, but it is very snug. Of the couple of hundred boats here at George Town, only FIVE boats came to Crab to weather the blow. Apparently, they believed their charts !!

We spent several hours yesterday (Friday) preparing for the weather, including setting our "back up" anchor. So, we had two anchors in the water to share the load in high winds of shifting directions. All the boats in our anchorage did the same, as we all helped each other set the second anchors. (The second anchor has to loaded into a dinghy, and the rode (rope) is let out while the dinghy takes the anchor and rode out at a 45 degree angle to the first about 150 feet and then dropped.) It is a three person operation to set the additional anchor; so help from other cruisers is really appreciated.

As for the blow, it was a fizzle. It came through Saturday morning at 4 am, with the predicted wind shift, but it blew "only" 25+ knots. The squall lasted about 20 minutes with tropical, driving rain..just enough to wash the decks. Gotta love non-events !! We peeked out, saw we were riding nicely, and went back to bed..the cove was nearly flat calm, as the wind whistled through the rigging. GREAT spot to weather a blow !!

We just hung out yesterday, doing some boat projects. Much of the day was spent deciding / planning what and where we were going to next. We have been in G/T now for one month and it is time to make plans for moving on. More to follow...

Not All Fun and Games......

As you know Trudie has been away for the last 10 days and today is the day she arrives back in George Town.  Now many of you probably thought  that I was in the dinghy and "on the go" the whole time she was gone.  This is what I would look like IF I were on the go.  (Note Persephone in the background.)  Photo was taken by Ian:

But, NO..... I was doing chores such as laundry.  Here I am in the shower with the "Sputnik".  The Sputnik is a small,  manual washer that you stuff your clothes in,  add water, detergent and crank like heck.  Here I am cranking away.....and you thought I was "on the go"   WRONG !!...... 

And, when I was done cranking,  I got to wring the clothes out by hand and hang them on the lifelines to dry :

See   it wasn't all fun and games while the first mate was away in Connecticut  !!!

Boy, am I glad to have Trudie back !!

Day in the Cruising Life

Hey all.......

"So, what do you do all day" ?.......

One day is fading into the next here in George Town, Exuma. The day starts at 6:30 am when we are roused to listen to the weather via shortwave radio. This is our only source of weather forecasts. There is no TV, regular radio, NOAA weather radio or other means of getting weather information. When living on the water, weather (primarily wind, sea conditions, and potential storms/squalls) is of prime importance for our safety and comfort.

During the weather broadcast, breakfast is prepared, emails are composed and returned, and work is done on the blog. Following the morning chores there are always boat projects to tackle which usually take until noon. Preventative maintenance on the main engine, generator (oil changes etc), waxing the fiberglass and keeping the rust from building up on the exterior stainless steel takes a good amount of our time.

We try to keep the afternoons free for recreational pursuits. Every afternoon there is "fun" beach volleyball, dominoes, luncheons, spearfishing and lobstering or just plain hanging out relaxing. The weather here is nearly the same each day; unless a front comes through. Spring has arrived in the Bahamas; the temps are now in the low 80s each day, with bright blue skies, light winds, and puffy clouds. We have not had only 2 showers (about 3 minutes each) since before Christmas....Yes, 6 weeks and just 2 brief sprinkles. The winter climate in the South/Central Bahamas is ideal.

The evening begins with "sundowners" in the cockpit while listening to Jimmy Buffet. The sunsets here are usually breathtaking as the sun hangs over the horizon. Following our "sundowners", dinner is prepared, and clean up follows. By 8 PM things start to wind down on Persephone with reading, studying charts and cruising guides for our next leg and watching the occasional movie. By 9 PM its lights out so we are ready to do it all over again the next day.

I don't know how I ever had time to work !!! Singlehanding Dave