Weather Hostage.....

Atlantic side of Dominica

"Liahona" and "Persephone" arrived in Dominica FIVE days ago.  We had planned on leaving the next morning for Martinique.  However, our plans were foiled by a front which stalled over the area.  All week, there have been squalls with high winds (22-25 gusting to 30 +) and torrential downpours.  And to make matters even more interesting (pun intended) the seas swells are over ten feet !!  So, we have been held hostage here by the weather.

On Tuesday night I got so excited watching an old episode of  "Star Trek" I pulled my back out.  I crawled off the couch to get to the V-birth.  Wednesday was a wasted day; I could do absolutely nothing but lay flat, take anti-inflammatory drugs, and apply ice to my low back.  Not a fun day.

On Thursday, I was getting cabin fever, when I got a radio call from 'Liahona' suggesting we take a tour of Dominica.  I agreed and off we went on a 6 hour tour of  the island, in the wind and driving rain of course.....



Evening Squalls over Dominica

Dominica is an incredibly lush island which receives over 350 inches of rain per year.  (I didn't expect that all that rain would fall in one week, however !!)  The island has over 350 rivers and several waterfalls. Here I am at the Emerald Pools beneath one of Dominica's many waterfalls....

Because of the rain, and fertile volcanic soils, nearly every fruit, vegetable, spice and nut grows in Dominica...we found pineapples, mangoes, passion fruit, coca beans, bay leaves, cashew nuts, pumpkin, star fruit, lemon grass, coffee beans just to name few.  But the most we saw was banana plantations everywhere ! Each bunch of bananas is wrapped in a blue plastic bag to protect the fruit from bugs, rodents and bruising:

Despite the rain and wind, we had an enjoyable tour of Dominica.  This is the second poorest island in the Caribbean, second only to Haiti.  But, the Dominicans are trying to improve their infrastructure by enticing hotel construction and tourism to the island.  But, this may be a two edge sword.  It is said that Dominica is the only island in the Caribbean that Columbus would recognize today; due to the retention of it's unspoiled, natural state.  

Gonna try and move south tomorrow...Martinique here we come.... !!

Capt Dave 

Another Day, Another Country....

The racing and parties are over and it was time to leave Antigua. So in three days, Persephone has sailed from Antigua to Guadeloupe on to Dominica… Yup, three days, three countries. My plan was to continue south to Martinique today, but a front arrived last night and spoiled my plans. When I awoke this morning the winds were howling, so, I thought it best to stay put in Portsmouth Harbor, Dominica for a day or two, until they subside. There are always boat projects to do while waiting.



Until today, the sailing has been terrific; with perfect winds, blowing in the right direction for top boat speed, and comfortably low seas. It just couldn’t get any better. On Easter Sunday, with the boat basically sailing herself; my mind began to wonder….” (never a good thing) This was the type of sailing you wish could last forever…”forever”….hmmmmm. Interesting concept….


Apparently, nothing lasts “forever”, and being Easter and all, I started to think about the end of ALL days i.e. The Rapture. But, when will the end of the world occur?? God knows, Mary would want her only son (I am talking about my sainted mother, Mary) ready for THE END. What would happen if he was low on rum, or cold beer. My sainted mother would be outraged, embarrassed and ultimately disgusted. (Remember running out of beer at Farmer’s Cay last year ??) Not being properly prepared for the end of the world would be completely unacceptable. So, what should a good son do ??


The answer is obvious…go to the website: www.raptureready.com  and check out the “Rapture Index”. This is a matrix of 45 factors used to determine how close we are to the end of the world. It bills itself as a “speedometer for the end of time”. (You just can’t make this stuff up !!) Now, all you have to do is get up in the morning, check the Rapture Index, and you are good to go. But, not so fast !! Last week, the Rapture Index hit a record all time high of 184; so THE END could be getting very near, and coming quickly.


After checking out the Rapture Index, I decided I better get prepared; and fast. So, I loaded up Persephone with several bottles of Antigua’s English Harbor aged rum, and a couple of cases of Carib beer. So, now I am ready…bring it on !! With this much beer and rum onboard, hell, I may even see the Easter Bunny !!


Sailing as if the world will end tomorrow, Happy Easter !!


Capt Dave

Off to the Races Part Two....

Which way do you go ???

Off to the Races.....

Calling for room at the mark !!

Close action at the first mark among the "J-Boats"

"Valshetta"(right) tacking to starboard as she rounds the mark
first and gets the right of way over "Ranger" (center) who
is on a port tack and has no rights and no where to go !!

Antigua Classic Yacht Week

Willie of 'Liahona' at the helm of 'Coral'
with two of the crew

The festivities for Classic Week started on Tuesday evening.  The crew of 'Liahona', 'Silver Heels III' and 'Persephone' were invited aboard the classic yacht 'Coral' for a dinner with the crew.  "Coral" is a beautiful, all wooden 100+ foot schooner built in 1902.  Her homeport is South Africa and she transversed the Atlantic to participate in Race Week.  We had originally discussed with the captain racing aboard her during a cocktail party onboard 'Liahona'.  We were all set to go.  BUT !!  Coral is for sale, and at the last minute, the owner and broker wouldn't allow her to be raced for fear of damaging her.  I think the crew was more disappointed than we were. .

Last night there was a meet and greet at the Antigua Yacht Club. 
They really went all out....free Mt. Gay rum, a BBQ and excellent sushi. We all completely enjoyed the evening, catching up with old friends and meeting cruisers we have only heard on the radio.  They were still going strong when we left at 11:30 !!

This morning there was the "Concours d'Elegance" at the docks. This is a beauty contest for the yachts.  The crews have been working for days (weeks ?) touching up varnish and spit polishing the bronze.  There was so much varnish and polished metals, you had to wear shades....

The racing starts tomorrow.  We have rented a QUAD (4 wheel drive off-road vehicle) to carry us, and the coolers (yes, plural) up Pigeon Hill so we can observe the races.  This vantage point should provide a spectacular view of the race course.

What did I do with my new red Mt. Gay cap ??

Capt. Dave

Sunday Morning.....

So, there I was liming in the cockpit enjoying a book and a coldie when Devi of  'Artic Tern' dinghyed over and said: "I am arranging a walk early tomorrow (Sunday) morning up and over Pigeon Hill to English Harbor.  Wanna come" ?  I looked over at Pigeon Hill and said "how bad can it be...sure, what time" ?  "Eight AM" was the reply.  Is the sun even up at that time on a Sunday morning,  I thought....  The crews of 6 boats assembled at the dock at 8 AM.  The sky was  azure blue with white puffy clouds, bright sun, already 80 degrees but there was a light cooling breeze.  The "walk" was moderately difficult the mile up Pigeon Hill, but the views were sensational...Enjoy:



This is the entrance to Falmouth Harbor



This is Falmouth Harbor.  Persephone is nearly center in the picture

Antigua between Falmouth and English Harbors



The entrance to English Harbor

 Following the walk, we assembled at the Seabreeze Cafe for "smoothies" et als.  Mark of  'Liahona' had the best idea of the morning.  He ordered a BIG hunk of NY cheesecake to pass around.  Gotta love it....a hard workout followed by cheesecake !!   Viva the cruising life !!

Capt Dave.....   

Old Home Week...(Month ??)

One month ago, 'Persephone' and 'Silver Heels III' sailed to Antigua.  Nearly everyday since arriving,  friends have sailed into Falmouth Harbor from all points of the Caribbean.  The new arrivals have included cruiser friends  from the Bahamas ('Liahona'), friends from Puerto Rico ('Just Imagine...'), and yachties  from Grenada ('Here Today', 'Beach House', 'Sailacious', 'Mini B', 'Josie Bird', 'Receta',  and 'Impessionist'); to name only a few.  Many of the crews I have not seen since leaving Grenada over three months ago.  It has been great getting reacquainted with sundowners!!

The reason for the reunion is the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta being held from April 14th-19th.  The Antigua Yacht Club hosts this event (which is in it's 70th year) as part of the  "the preeminent international classic yachts racing circuit, attracting some of the finest yachts from all corners of the world..."  And from what I have seen so far, this is an understatement !!   Yachts include the gleeming 'Rebecca' at 139 ft long; needing a racing crew of 25+; the 114 ft schooner 'Marie Pierre';  the dueling queens of the race course... 136 ft J Class Sloops 'Velesheda' and 'Ranger'.  The teak on 'Velesheda' is varnished to perfection, the gloss so deep and shiny that you can't look at her cabin top in the sunshine without sunglasses....I could easily shave in the reflection....Perfection !!  As I was chatting with the crew (hoping for an invitation to race on board), I had to be careful not to drool all over the deck.  Then there is 'Pink Lady"....a/k/a "Pretty in Pink"...a 37 ft classic Carriacou sloop, painted pink and white, with a bikini clad all female crew. (The crew includes such names as Scary Mary, Tipsy Gypsy, Psycho Betty, Killer B and Thirsty Kirsty....)

If you wish to follow the fun check out http://www.antiguaclassics.com/   It is worth just seeing the slide show of the classic yachts racing....
Enjoy !!


        



Upper left:  dinner on "Liahona";  Upper right: Sunset at Jolly Harbor
Lower Left:  Barbuda beach;  Lower right: Ingela and Matts of Swedish vessel "Elin Alida"
flanking Ken and Lynn of "Silver Heels III"