Persephone versus the Volcano....

A week ago, at sunrise, 'Persephone' and 'Sailacious' motored out of  Les Saintes and traveled the 55 miles to the volcanic island of Montserrat.  During the past decade, Montserrat's volcano has had three major eruptions with several lesser "events"; the last one being in 2008.    The most major of the eruptions left the capital city of Plymouth covered in a couple of feet (yes, FEET) of ash.  The city had to be abandoned, and two thirds of the population left Montserrat. The entire south side of island is still an "Exclusionary Zone" where travel is prohibited.

Montserrat's Volcano

In addition to the feet of ash covering Plymouth, the lava flow surrounded the city.  The lava flow is still clearly seen as you approach from seaward....

'Persephone' and 'Sailacious' sailed into Montserrat's remaining harbor; which is tiny, and very commercial.  The harbor is just a small "cut out" behind a small mountain.  The local fishing fleet (small open boats) were moored throughout the harbor further decreasing the room. As a result, the remaining portion of the anchorage is exposed to the swells of the Caribbean Sea.  A north swell was running into the harbor, and the boats were rising and falling five feet, making it very uncomfortable.  But, we were there, wanted to tour the volcano, and made the decision to stay.

Janice and Steve ('Sailacious') picked us up in their dinghy for the short trip ashore.   We were greeted by a customs official who announced that we were anchored in channel and had to move the boats.  We tried to explain that the anchors were in the channel, but the boats themselves were well outside according to our GPS.   He again demanded we move...but where ?  He "suggested" that move further outside of the anchorage into still deeper water.  We were already anchored in water 36 feet deep...much deeper would become "questionable" in the swells.  Smiling, (smurking ?)  the official said we should clear customs first (ie. pay the fees and get our money) and then move the boats.  We all looked at each other, exchanged glances and headed for the dinghy.  We all agreed that the place just "didn't have a good feel".  An unattractive harbor, unprotected from the swells, very deep, crowded with fishing boats and an unfriendly official added up to one conclusion....GET OUT.   So, we hauled anchor (it was 3pm) and moved the boats....out of the country !!  We set a course for Nevis,  35 miles away.  In the end, the volcano won and chased  'Persephone' from it's island.  As we left, Jimmy Buffett was on the stereo singing..."where do you go when the volcano blows"?  Anywhere but Montserrat !!

THE CREW