Mountains and Beer...what's in a name ?

Hi all from St. Lucia.....

THE CREW left Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, mid-morning after T made homemade pancakes with fresh bananas which we had purchased from one of the local boat boys. WONDERFUL !! The sail down the coast of St. Lucia was beautiful, fast and fun with the Trades doing their best to push us along at just the right speed.


We decided to pick up a mooring 20 miles down the coast under and between St. Lucia’s famous Piton Mountains. The twin mounts rise directly from the sea to nearly 4000 feet. They are truly spectacular making for a dramatic anchorage….little did I know how dramatic the Pitons would be…..

Per our usual procedure, Captain Dave is on the wheel and Trudie, armed with a boathook, was to pick up the pennant attached to the floating mooring ball and slip our dockline through the eye in the pennant. T grabbed the pennant, but it was very short and she could reach down far enough (or close enough to the water) to slip the dockline through the eye. The CAPTAIN was already on the bow, ready with instructions….”Go back to the wheel, I’ll handle this”, I directed. I couldn’t reach down far enough either, so I had to drop the pennant back into the water.

T asked if she should bring Persephone around for another pass at the mooring ball (no easy feat, as it was blowing nearly 30 knots under the mountains (meteorologist geeks remember katabatic winds) and T had only picked up one previous mooring ball in benign conditions). Sure, give it a try, I yelled back to the helm in a voice that bordered on condescending (really not expecting T would ever be able to control the boat in those conditions well enough to nose the bow to a 18” ball bobbing all over the place in the wind and waves and stop 30 thousand pounds of boat before running over the bobbing ball). I heard the engine power up, the boat spun on her keel, and T aimed the boat perfectly….as we approached I heard her throttle back, and put the boat in reverse at just the right moment to arrest our forward momentum. I “skillfully” (NOT) hooked the pennant, got the boathook twisted in the line, wedged the pole against the lifelines on the boat and instantly heard a loud …..SNAP !! The boathook blew apart in my hands !! (I have owned this boathook for 30 YEARS !! No exaggeration…it was a GREAT pole…I’ll miss it !!) My eyes almost popped out of my head as the remnants of my nearly new boathook floated away….

Trudie, “bring her around again” I yelled to be heard over the wind; not believing I didn’t hook up the boat on the SECOND pass!! T again spun the boat on her keel and was again aimed at the mooring. Meanwhile, I rushed back to the cockpit locker and got out my “emergency boathook”; actually it is the handle to the cleaning brush with a flimsy boathook end that snaps on in place of the brush….sort of the ginsu knife attachment of boathooks with the quality you would expect from a ginsu knife .) And, wait, there’s more ! 

This time, (pass #3) I hooked the pennant, got the line through, but the line got tangled and I couldn’t pull it through the eye; so I had to again drop the pennant. Again, T spun Persephone around for ANOTHER perfect pass at the mooring . Now being an expert with lots of practice today (and a bit dizzy after going around so many times), I hooked the pennant, ran the dockline through the eye and tried to release the boathook from the pennant….NO WAY ! The hook got stuck in the line and I couldn’t extract it. The pole started to bend, so I had to let go so as not to break my fragile ginsu boat pole. With the tension released, the pole sprang straight up into the air, did a perfect 10 foot high end over end dive into the water and started floating way to join the first pole. What do I do ?? I NEED a boat hook on board for the next mooring !! (25’ from Persephone and moving quickly….) I glance at the dinghy and quickly cancelled that option as the outboard motor was not on it, and the oars were stored in the locker….damn !! (50’ from Persephone and picking up speed….) I quickly tore off my hat and sunglasses, checked my pockets (think Clark Kent changing into Superman) and dived into the water after the pole fully dressed. A short swim later, I was able to retrieve the pole as Trudie was lowering the boarding ladder. T took one look at me, and said “boy, you look like you could use a cold one” !! I handed her the pole with a sheepish nod …..

“HEY, when did you learn to maneuver Persephone like that”, I asked as I climbed the boarding ladder and was now dripping all over the cockpit ? “I’m a lot better at this than you think or give me credit….” she retorted, with that look over her shoulder that every guy hates, as she descended into the galley to get a cold local beer…. The name of the local beer….yep, you guessed it “PITON”

For once, I just shut up, opened the beers, toasted Trudie and smiled at the Pitons…..the mountains and the beer.

On the Move Again.....

Well, it sure has been a long time since we updated the Blog....So here goes.....
Persephone and I are BOTH on the move again.  First, let's talk about me (it is always about me.....NOT) Anyway, I went to the hospital at Marin, Martinique to see what I did to my knee.  I was greeted by a nurse who took charge of my care.  I was taken right away, a history taken, off to X-Ray, seen by a doctor, given some perscriptions for meds and given a referral for a further consultation.  ALL FOR $55.00 US !!!!!  All I can talk about is the quality of the care, and the cost.....why can't the US get it's act together with quality, affordable healthcare ??   One of the perscriptions was for an anti-inflammatory and the other for Nexium, "the purple pill" as the first drug may upset my stomach.  Anyway, back in the States, I was taking the "purple pill" for a while at a cost of $175.00 for thirty pills....my co-pay was $30.00.  The EXACT same drug was available at the local pharmacy in Marin for approximately $10.00 US for FIFTY pills...my CO-PAY was TRIPLE the cost of the drug in the islands.  Enough ranting....too early on a hot morning ! I don't want to add gas to the fire on the health care debate;  but something is horribly wrong with the US system when contrasted with the "third world" islands of the Carribean.  Anyway, the bottom line is that I pulled/sprained my knee, and time should get me moving again just fine. (The X-Ray did show quite a bit of calcification....arthritis....so that was the reason for the follow up consult).

Now for Persephone,  she too has been "on the move".  We left Martinique yesterday morning for a beautiful sail over to St. Lucia.  This was one of the best sails of the trip.  Perfect, brisk Trade Winds, constant in speed and direction pushed us quickly to St. Lucia.  We had a couple of brief squalls which didn't have much wind, but lots of rain.  What a way to cool off on a hot day.....just great !  We arrived in Marigot Inlet late afternoon.  What a cute, upscale place we have found.  We will go ashore this morning to clear customs, and explore the town.  I promised to take T out for dinner tonite....which is a real treat for both of us.

We still want to post several pictures, however, the internet connection is spotty at best.  Will try.....

THE CREW  

Loving the French Islands....

T and I were hobbling (only I was hobbling....more below) from the bar, after attending happy hour, and we were talking about the approaching clouds. Just as we fired up the dinghy, the deluge hit...an absolute driving tropical downpour. I gunned the engine and we planed across the harbor in the pelting rain. We got drenched, the rain was cool, but, the air is warm...what a great way to cool off after a hot day. AND, the added bonus is we left the values open to the water tanks, so we were able to collect 30+ gallons of fresh water (so we don't have to haul it AND pay for it). Simply, even a downpour in the tropics (and Martinique in particular) is a good thing !!

We are still in Marin, Martinique, and completely enjoying it. We came here because of the threat earlier in the week of a tropical "event" possibly forming in the Atlantic. Marin has a good "hurricane hole" if God forbid needed. We are still in the "Bay of Cyclones"....so called because there are mangrove trees on three sides of the anchorage, and the anchorage is surrounded by high mountains. The importance of mangroves is that you can pull the boat into the mangroves and tie the boat to the roots. The roots are prolific and VERY dense, and thus very difficult to pull out; making for an excellent storm anchorage. Thank God, we didn't need to try our luck in the mangroves!!

Two days ago, I was doing a boat project and was kneeling on the deck. When I tried to stand, something popped in my right knee....I have no idea what I did to it. All I know is that it hurts like heck and I can hardly walk. I have been taking it easy, and applying ice regularly. The ice is reducing the swelling, and I am a bit better today....getting old is a bi**h !! (As I said, I WAS able to get to a bar, so how bad can it be !!). However, I am not up to sailing, or anything involving balance, or walking any distance (unless it involves a baguette). If there is not a vast improvement by Monday, I am going to check out a doctor. If needed, I would rather get medical attention on a French island, then some of the islands to our south. Will let you know my progress, or lack thereof....

Time to start dinner....chicken on the grill, baguettes and French pastries for desert. Boy, the French DO know how to live and THE CREW are quick studies!! We are actually becoming connoisseurs of baguettes and the different varieties ....what are we going to do when we leave the French Islands behind for the summer ? We are addicted !!

Staying put for the weekend, and (if the knee improves) off to St. Lucia, St. Vincent's/ The Grenadines and finally Grenada. Will keep you posted.

THE CREW

Marinique

Underway to Martinique. AOK. Great sailing.... THE CREW

Dominica....

We sailed today down the coast of Dominica to the capitol, Roseau. Not a very pretty place, so we decided to stay on the boat.

We had a blast yesterday exploring the Indian River. Our guide, Alexis, picked us (Dancing Dolphin and Persephone) up on our boats in his wooden pram and took us to the river. The Indian River Authority does not permit outboard engines of any kind. So, out come the oars, and Alexis rowed the two crews, his nephew, and himself the 1.5 miles up the river, all the while giving a commentary on the river, birds, fauna, flora etc. It was educational, entertaining and just plain fun. Pictures will follow when we have an internet connection. The rain forest was very dense and the trees formed a canopy over the river...sort of like the "African Queen" movie. At the top of the river in a clearing was a little tiki bar; featuring their trade mark drink "Dynamite"...yep, it sure was !! Gotta love it, a tiki bar in the middle of nowhere, when you need it most....nice touch !!

Back on the boats we had "heavy apps" for dinner and called it an early night.

This morning we awoke to news of a possible "tropical event" brewing in the Atlantic east of us with a 50% possibility of forming the season's first named storm. So, we are hi-tailing it down the coast of Dominica. This is NO place to be if a storm approaches. We have been consulting our guides for possible hurricane holes if god forbid we need one. We will be leaving here at 5am and heading directly for Martinique to assess the situation from there. Will keep you all up to date on our situation. Right now we are thinking this is a non-event, but, we don't want to take any chances.

Cheers, THE CREW

Dominica.....

Good morning from Dominica...

We arrived on Dominica yesterday around noon and anchored without incident. Dominica is known as the "island of rainbows and waterfalls" due to the amount of rain. It rains nearly every hour here (not literally, but pretty close). The mountains are so high that they reach the clouds and cause them to dump rain on the island constantly. Last evening we saw a brilliant rainbow arching over the harbor and town. Last night, we were able to fill one of our water tanks (45 gals) in about 20 minutes. (We have been relying exclusively on collected rain water for weeks now...with water at 50+ cents per gal...when you can get it.... collection is the only way to go. In the islands of Guadeloupe, water was sold in bulk starting at 35 Euros or $45 !!...)

Today, we hope to be able to go on a tour up the Indian River into the rain forest where there are multiple waterfalls. We will bring a camera !

Easing into the day...it is 8:30 here and it is already 85 deg heading toward the mid/hi 90s. T is already ashore at the farmers' market picking up fresh produce before it gets "jungle hot". Ah, summer in the tropics. No wonder everything is closed from noon to 3pm; just to hot to move.

All for now.....THE CREW

Underway

We are underway to the island country of Dominica. This is reported to be the only island that Columbus would recognize if he were to show up today. It has been left largely in its natural state. So we are on our way to check it out. We won't be staying long as the first tropical wave of the 2010 hurricane season passed through during the past two days. Rain, wind and squalls were around, but nothing serious...but it serves as a warning the we must press south to get below the hurricane belt before the season really becomes active.

More from Dominica soon......THE CREW

Isles des Saintes, Guadeloupe

Good morning, all....

Yesterday, we sailed down to the Isle des Saintes ("eel day SANT") a small group of island just south of (and part of Guadeloupe).  Guadeloupe is outrageously beautiful.  So, here are some pictures.....

The is the fishing village of Des Haies where we first arrived.

The clouds touch the sky.  You can see a shower over the mountains.

The southwest corner of Guadeloupe as we sail by.....

Our arrival at the village of Isle des Saintes.....

Guadeloupe, FWI

Hello from Guadeloupe.

We sailed from St. Kitts to this island yesterday, arriving this morning. It is about 80 miles, and it took us about 17 hours to do the the sail. The reason it took so long is that we sailed (didn't use the engine) the entire distance....harbor to harbor. And, the wind didn't want to cooperate in strength or direction. As a result, we had a very "spirited" sail all the way here; especially in the wee hours of the morning....with waves crashing over the bow, a very dark night, constantly being sprayed, and a trip into the cabin was like jumping into a washing machine on spin cycle. But, we made it without incident, the only downside was a lack of sleep. I didn't want to leave the cockpit in those conditions; thus, the lack of updates to the Blog.

Anyway, we arrived at around daybreak (5:30 am) at Des Haies (pronounced "day Hey"). Des Haies is a small fishing village, which is very laid back and quaint. Our friends on "Sanctuary" and "Just Imagine" arrived shortly after we did. We all went ashore (after taking naps) around noon, and found that customs is closed from noon until 4:30. So, when I am done here, we will make another attempt to find "the MAN". There are several boutique type shops and small french restaurants lining the main street. Happy hour starts at 5pm, so we will check it out and the town and let you know.

Although cute, this is not a place to linger (no beach). We are studying the guide books and discussing our next stop. Will let you know, as soon as we know....however, the next stop will definitely be somewhere on Guadeloupe, but further south down the coast. Our plans are to spend several days to a week here, as there are a couple of tropical waves predicted to roll through over the next several days, culminating on Wednesday/Thursday. These waves bring wind and rain to the area, so we want to be in a protected harbor.

All for now... THE CREW.

Guadeloupe

Underway to Guadeloupe. Will arrive around 6am. Spirited, aggressive trade winds sailing. AOK aboard. Posted a Position Report with Winlink for detailed lat and long position.

THE CREW

St. Kitts

Hi All.....

Just a quick note to update you on where we are....

We left St. Barth's this morning for a great 40+ mile sail down to St. Christopher's (a/k/a "St Kitts"). This place if very pretty with the mountains (4,000' +) coming right out of the ocean and climbing to the clouds....truly awesome.

We were on the radio, and were overheard by "Sanctuary" and "Just Imagine" who are anchored about 5 miles away on Nevis. They are leaving for Guadalupe tomorrow...and we may be buddy boating with them. Guadalupe is appx 75 miles south of our current position, so it would again be another overnight sail. This will be Trudie's 11th overnight of THE TRIP. Decision has not yet been made, as we will look at the weather in the AM, and make our decision then. (I think T is addicted to the French islands with their baguettes and chocolate croissants.)
t
Meanwhile, we are at Ballast Bay on St. Kitts. We had planned on going to the main town of Bassetarre to anchor and clear customs. BUT, when we sailed up to it, all we saw was loaded with commercial ships, and several tankers...not very pretty after being on St. Barths. So, out came the charts and we found this quite cove about 5 miles out of town. Great place, no roll, little breeze and steep mountains surrounding the anchorage for ambiance. This is just the kind of place we really enjoy. (There is only one other boat here and he is anchored quite far away from us.) We are flying our Q flag, as we didn't check in with customs and immigration, and therefore, cannot go ashore. (If we are only going to be here for a short time, I really don't want to pay the fees for a quick stop. We have all we need aboard, so we don't really need anything ashore.

For those plotting our position, Ballast Bay, St. Kitts is at 17 14.42N 062 39.65W.

We will decide in the AM if we are staying here, heading over to Nevis (same country as St. Kitts) or heading south....decisions, decisions....

THE CREW

St. Barths

Hey Bob (and of course Lori !!)

You asked us to "rate" St Barths with a Bon Jour or a Boo Jour....that is a very difficult assignment, as it is sort of both....

We are really enjoying Colombier (a natural park on the north side of St. Barths)...free, high quality mooring, great beach, clean water, and lots of turtles around the boat. And, the "day trippers" all leave by late afternoon. It is rimmed with high mountains on two sides, so the winds are abated and the scenery is ruggedly beautiful So, this gets a big thumbs up.

We actually took the dinghy down to Gustavia (the main town) to check in this morning (late morning); we left the boat at the mooring. It is a couple miles down the coast...no big deal. I was too lazy to move the big boat, and we liked where we were moored. (Again taking advantage of the go-fast dinghy) Lori mentioned to get lots of forms as they are all the same in the French Islands.... The current procedure is to check yourself in....there is a bank of computers at each immigration office, and you type your info in, and it is stored in the French data base; so if you return to the island, you don't have to reenter the infor. Once you type in your data, you print the form, and hand it to the official, who holds his hand out for the fee. That's it....10 minutes and you are all done; both inbound and outbound clearance is done in one shot. Very nice, easy, and all done in an air conditioned office...another thumbs up.

We wandered around town after clearing customs...The town is just too upscale for us. The shops are basically the same as in St. Martin...Gucci, Cartier, Prada, DK, Louis V, etc. Simply, nothing we could afford, or are interested in buying. A leather Gucci bag is not going to stand up very well in the saltwater environment of the dinghy, or Persephone for that matter...(my "wallet" is a Glad sandwich bag....can you see me pulling that out in one of these stores !!)

After watching the beautiful people, we stopped at an outside "snack bar" and had a couple of burgers and washed them down with a coldie. You can put THE CREW "in France", but you can't
make us French...guess we are still "ugly Americans" with burgers and a beer....viva la differance !!

We returned to Persephone, and hit the beach for the remainder of the afternoon.

Sundowners with cheese and a baguette only seemed appropriate on French St Barths...while planning our next hop.

THE CREW

PS: T has TWO yes TWO "pet" SHARKS (you read right...JAWS and JAWS Jr) living under Persephone. Any biodegradable scraps that go overboard are quickly scoffed up by her "pets". (Last nite a chicken bone created a feeding frenzy. We forgot about the chicken bone today, while we both dangled our feet off the swim platform)....T's friends are back again now as I type...think I will pass on that evening swim....(Jaws music fading in the background...)