For the Birds.....

Last week a group of cruisers went for an overnight trip to the Aca Wright Nature Center for a couple of days of birdwatching.  It was incredible !!  Left is the entrance to the main 'house' at AWNC.  The following pictures are for the birds....

Humingbird comes in for a landing at the bird feeder...

 

"The Pardey Philosophy"

It was three years ago on September 17th that Persephone's dock lines were cut in Westbrook, Connecticut and this trek began.  This morning, Persephone and I are docked in Trinidad; at the bottom of the Eastern Caribbean, (only 12 miles from South America),  Persephone is in a marina located 2000 miles south of where it all began.  Since cutting the dock lines, I have never looked back. 

" I have never looked back " is a pretty strong sentiment.  Three years of full time cruising has provided me with a prospective on why this life style has been successful for me.  The simple answer is, I am a cruiser and not a camper.  Lin and Larry Pardey are arguably the most famous cruisers of all time.  They started cruising in the late seventies and have over 185,000 sea miles.  The "Pardey Philosophy" may be summed up with the phrase they coined: "Go simple, Go small".  Their idea of 'simple' is sailing without an engine, no electronics for navigation (a sextant is fine) no running or hot water, no refrigeration, (and of course no freezer), no lighting (kerosene lights instead) and no creature comforts i.e. never stay at a marina, no stereo, DVDs,  flushable toilet and God forbid, no air conditioning.  For the past 35 years,  the Pardeys have preached their philosophy to every wanna be voyager in a series of  'how to' books which have become the anointed  'bibles of cruising'.  It is amazing how their philosophy has been elevated to gospel which is still spread by their loyal followers today.

The missionaries of the 'Pardey Philosophy' always start the conversation with "Well, REAL cruisers don't have/need ___________________".  (Fill in the blank with any of the items listed above). The Pardey Preacher delivers 'The Gospel' in a condescending tone, less some unwashed heathen dares to be sacrilegious and disagree. Anyone who questions the doctrine is branded with the scarlet letters "NRC"....'Not a Real Cruiser' and is banished from the congregation.

A couple of months ago when I mentioned installing air conditioning aboard Persephone; I thought the face of one of the Preachers was going to melt off and his skull explode !!  (Recall the closing scenes of "Raiders of the Lost Ark").  This generated a whole new round of what is proper equipment (more accurately what is not proper equipment)  for REAL cruisers on Facebook, and Blogs.   

For me, successful cruising is not camping.  I don't want to live a monastic life of sack cloth and warm beer.   Persephone is my home...I want the same comforts aboard as I would have if I were living ashore. Persephone has evolved into a comfortable, safe place to live aboard and travel.   The Pardey Philosophy may have worked decades ago;  but camping is not conducive to long term cruising. If you are sailing only part of the year (snow chickens), plan on voyaging for a short period of time, or on a very tight budget, boat camping may work.  But, if cruising is going to be your lifestyle, creature comforts are essential for long term success. 

Just finished a hot shower, got a cold beer going,  frozen meatballs in the freezer for tonight's dinner, stereo is playing Jimmy Buffett and Fox News is on the TV, all while tied to a dock at a marina....

BOOM !!!    Think I just heard a head explode !!!!

          



  

  

Talk Like a Pirate Day

Hey, maties...today, September 19th is "International Talk Like a Pirate Day".  Avast, some of you landlubbers may have difficulty talking like a pirate.  But, there is a solution:  An English to Pirate translator.  http://www.talklikeapirate.com/translator.html

(Left photo) "Not all treasure is silver and gold, mate", Captain Jack Sparrow 

"The only rules that really matter are these: what a man can do and what a man can’t do. For instance, you can accept that your father was a pirate and a good man or you can’t."  Captain Jack Sparrow

"Me? I’m dishonest, and a dishonest man you can always trust to be dishonest. Honestly. It’s the honest ones you want to watch out for, because you can never predict when they’re going to do something incredibly… stupid."  Captain Jack Sparrow

And my favorite quote:

"Not just the Spanish Main, love. The entire ocean. The entire wo'ld. Wherever we want to go, we'll go. That's what a ship is, you know. It's not just a keel and a hull and a deck and sails, that's what a ship needs but what a ship is... what the Black Pearl really is... is freedom." Captain Jack Sparrow.

Whether aboard the 'Black Peal' or 'Persephone'... it's all about freedom....yo-ho-ho and a bottle of rum !!  

 

Rumfestival 2012

Mark ('Liahona') and I holding up some of the 80,000 barrels !

Yesterday a large group of cruisers got distracted from working on our boats to attend the Angostura 2012 Rumfestival.  Angostura is world renowned for its bitters...but it also makes a great selection of rums at its distillary in Trinidad...so we were off to check them out...Below is a Rum Cone cart ! 

Ed (sv Skylark) and Willie (sv Liahona) enjoying Rumfestival '12

Manly pursuits....

When "manly" cruisers get together for a sundowners, engines often become a prime topic.  The main diesel on 'Persephone'  (Westerbeke brand) has a serpentine timing belt.  I mentioned to Mark (s/v Liahona) that the specs require replacing the belt every 1000 hours; and asked if this was critical.  Mark (a mechanic by trade) asked how many hours were on the engine....I replied nearly 1500.  Mark merely mentioned that if the belt fails, the valves and pistons would crash into each other ruining the engine (ie...why they call it a TIMING belt !).  The Choice:  replace a $125.00 belt, or risk a $20,000 engine.  OK, the belt needs replacement !!  BUT, the belt is inside the engine housing, and keeping the engine aligned and 'in time' while removing/replacing the belt is crucial.

'Liahona' was in need of new curtains in the forward cabin...'Persephone' was in need of a new timing belt.  Barter Time:  Mark would deal with the timing belt, and I would make curtains for 'Liahona'.  So, Mark gathered up big wrenches, screwdrivers, and of course a hammer.  I got out my sewing machine...Mark worked on tensioning the belt, I worked on tensioning the thread....

Work in progress

Timing belt can be seen winding around the gears of the engine

New curtains on 'Liahona'




 

    

Splashed !!

 

Persephone Hanging Out

 

 

'Persephone' is just finishing her third year of  full time cruising in the Caribbean.  So, it was time to get her "handsomed up".  So, for the past ten days, 'Persephone' has been out of the water and "on the hard" at Peakes Yacht Yard in Chaguaramas, Trinidad.  While on the hard, her sides were professionally washed, compounded and waxed restoring the luster of her gelcoat.  The shine is so bright, you need sunglasses to look at her.

 

In addition, her bottom was pressure washed (everyone likes a girl with a clean bottom !!) and recoated with Sea Hawk 44 bottom paint.  In the spring, I did the bottom while in the British Virgin Islands,  using Micron 66 bottom paint.  This product totally failed again in only 5 months. At over $300 US per gallon (4 gallons are used),   one would think it would repeal barnacles for longer than a couple of months...simply, it is worthless.  So, it was time for a change; and Trini is the cost effective place to do it.  Peakes did all the labor, while I sipped a mint iced tea and watched !  The results were awesome !!

 

 

                                                                   

 

Above, Bruce ('Wild Matilda') inspects the bottom job.  Right, Persephone is getting ready to launch....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



 



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
                                                                                              

Tropical Storm Isaac

At the risk of sounding like an owl kissing, tree hugging, oatmeal cookie eating, granola crunching, Birkenstock wearing,  liberal environmentalist; the more I sail, the more I realize that olanet earth is a pretty small rock, and cyclonic storms are very large in comparison.   It is simply amazing the geographic impact named storms have on a region. 

This morning, Tropical Storm Isaac is nearly 300 miles north and west of Trinidad.  But, the impact is being felt here.  We are experiencing monsoonal rains, a swell entering the harbor which is rolling boats in their slips,  thunder storms, road floodings/closings, mud-slides, and business closing.  The cruising community is located on a pensula, all roads to the main part of Trini are flooded and closed.  It is amazing that a storm hundreds of miles away is having such a local impact.  Persephone was supposed to be waxed today and get 'handsomed up'....but the contractors can't get to the marina.  Good day to go back to bed.....

Trinidad.....

Good morning from Trinidad, mon !!  As most of you know, when this Blog is quite, I'm up to something !!  Summertime in Grenada is when major boat projects get accomplished on Persephone.  This year has been no exception.   I have been occupied installing a central air conditioning system.   I can hear the groans out there....whatcha doing ??  You are supposed to be a cruiser ??  Air Con...how decedent !  When are you going to use it ?

Well,  I thought of all the cons, listened to the na-sayers, and went ahead with the project anyway. The installation took a bit over two weeks to complete.   When it was completed, I flipped the switch and instant cold air.   Cold air in the tropics !!  What a concept !! Persephone has an onboard generator, so the AC can be used just about anywhere... whether anchored out, or in a marina.  I will be posting pictures of the installation adventure in the near future.

Well now that Persephone has a brand new AC system, the question is when and where  to use it.  I know, I know !!  Let's to head south to Trinidad.  Trinidad is a large, metropolitan country (main city has a population of 1.3 million) located at the very bottom of the eastern Caribbean. Trini is located only a dozen miles or so from Venezuela, South America; or six hundred miles from the equator.  So, it is HOT even by tropical standards.  

Trini is THE place for boat projects. Pieces and parts are easily available, and the labor force is experienced and reasonably (read: cheap).  The two projects on tap are to have the boat compounded and waxed while out of the water.  Although regularly waxed, a complete waxing, with an electric buffer, hasn't been done since Connecticut, three + years ago.  So, it's time....  Secondly, the Micon 66 bottom paint failed for the second time.  Micro 66 was used in January, 2011 and it was effective for only a couple of months.  I complained to the manufacture, and they replaced the paint free of charge.  I recoated the bottom in March of this year, and again it failed within 5 months.  This paint is $330.00 US per gallon, it should work !!!  I could have used Benny Moore house paint with the same result !!  Thank God, I didn't pay for the second four gallons of paint.  Anyway, I have done my research, and will be switching brands.  Persephone will be hauled next week to be 'handsomed up'.  Afterwards, the remainder of the hurricane season will be spent exploring Trinidad before returning to Grenada in mid-October.

Meanwhile, Persephone is sitting in Coral Cove Marina in the mid 90 degree jungle heat, plugged in with the new AC purring....  Think I have to adjust the thermostat...getting a bit chilly in here !!   

Mini-Hash......

 

L to R:  Ken, Lynn ('Silver Heels III') Kathy and John ('Oceania')

Nice ass, Lynn !!

A Hash is an agressive walk // run through the woods, rain forest, up and down 'hills' and through streams with lots of mud. Yesterday, a group of 'hashing cruisers' turned out for a charity event to support a local school. The trail followed along the beach, through a farm, and then up, up and up through the woods. The Hash started at the Cabier Lodge which has a petting zoo. Here is Lynn ('Silver Heels 3) scratching her ....

Lynn with 2 of the students.....

Water break....

Money raised, hard work out, cold beer....doesn't get better !! 

Scuba Diving

Diver Dave at 60 feet

Yesterday, Lynn ('Silverheels III'), Barbara, Charles ('Tusen Takk II') and I went scuba diving.  Most of my diving is boat bottom cleaning, maintaining the mooring, and finding items that I have dropped overboard.  Yesterday was just for fun. I just got an underwater case for my camera...so let's check it out.

Above, my dive buddy, Lynn ('SH III') with a 'double OK'.  Lynn just got certified as a Divemaster...
Quite an achievement...Congrats !!  Below, we swim through a school of Small Mouth Grunts.

Above, an eel gets ready to go for my throat.  He (she ?) wasn't happy with the camera flash. Note the color of the coral above Ernie the Eel.... Below, a ray dozes on the bottom bored with my attempts to photograph him.....

Note the blue around the ray's edges....

Finally, here is a lobster boldly exiting his hidy-hole, all the time laughting at me.  Clearly, he knows that the lobstering season is closed in Grenada....He may be laughing now, but I was singing: "See you in September...."

Great day blowing bubbles...Thank You Scuba Tech for making it perfect,  Diver Dave

Happy July 4th.....

July 4th, Mt. Hartman Bay, Grenada, West Indies




“Let every nation know, whether it wishes us well or ill, we shall pay any price, bear any burden, meet any hardship, support any friend, oppose any foe, to assure the survival and success of liberty.”   JFK

Yesterday about 25 cruisers hiked over a mountain and through the rain forest to the Fountainbleu Falls located in the interior of Grenada.  The hard core hikers started at Mount E'tang and hiked for 4 hours over a mountain to the falls.  The more sensible in the group,  (read: me) did a  modified version of about an hour trek meeting the hard core at the falls.  The day was perfect, bright sun, with reasonable temperatures  (mid 80s) and moderate humidity. 

                                       Here is our destination, the Fountainbleu Falls which is 65 feet high:

Ann (left of s/v Impressionist)  cools off.  After a long, dirty hike we  were covered in sticky mud which didn't seem to want to wash off.  Finally, we needed to use 'scrubby pads' to scour the filth off....


Home....

A week ago Monday, Persephone arrived in Grenada.  Mark,  Willie (s/v 'Liahona') and I walked into the Customs and Immigration Office, when the officer looked up, smiled and said: "Hi Persephone, welcome back" !  "Hi Mr. Williams...it's good to be back", I responded.  Meanwhile, Mark is looking at his feet and muttering "how come Customs knows you, what did you do this time ?"  Relax Mon, I'm 'home'. 

 Grenada is where the major boat projects are done. But first, the "Big Top"  (i.e large awning cover) had to be repaired.  It was chaffed in a couple of spots when I took it down last November; figuring I would stitch it during the winter season....wrong.  So, out came the sewing machine.....

But, don't get me wrong...it is not all work.  On Tuesday, Lynn and Ken (s/v 'Silverheels III') organized a picnic on top of a 'hill' (read: mountain) overlooking Mt. Hartman Bay where Persephone is moored for the summer.

Ken and I were in the field above chatting when out of the corner of my eye I see something coming at us.  I turned and saw a bull briskly walking toward us, who appeared agitated and getting ready to charge !  I yelled, " look out" to Ken who turned, yelped,  and took off running toward a tree.  Before I could react, Lynn (at 6' 2" tall) jumped up, screamed, raised her arms over her head and charged the bull !!!  The bull stopped dead in its tracks....not wanting to confront this crazy cruiser charging him.  The bull quickly turned tail, and ambled off. 

 Lynn wasn't taking any of his bull sh*t !!!!  

Pig Roast Part III

The following pictures were taken by our friend, Charles Shipley of m/v Tusen Takk 2.  To see more pictures and to read about the pig roast go to www.tusentakk2.com ....

Our host, Mark (l) and Ed of s/v Skylark get ready to serve...

 Blackboy serves the roasted pig.....delicious !!

Dancing after dinner with Ellen of  s/v 'Michlo III' nodding
her appoval of my soca moves !!

Willie, our hostess (s/v 'Liahona' )  enjoys the post-pig partying !!

Pig Roast continued.....




So there I was hanging out, when Black asked me to help out behind the bar.  Next thing I know,  I became the 'happy hour' bartender for the next three days.....

Mark tends the grill with nearly 75 pounds of pig cooking away, with a Hairoun (local beer)

Think Mark shoud have remembered to tie his apron for the picture !!

Mark and I are liming with a couple of  coldies while the pig is cooking..... 

Partying continues thru the afternoon.

Mayreau Pig Roast....

From last Wednesday thru Saturday, Persephone was moored at Saltwhistle Bay, Mayreau for Mark and Willie's First Annual Pig Roast.  More than 18 boats were anchored in the bay with over 40 party-goers enjoying the extended weekend.  Here is the venue.....

The beach at Saltwhistle Bay...Persephone is anchored to the left

Caribbean Sea left, and Saltwhistle Bay right

Colors of a beach vendor